Wednesday, March 6, 2013

Catch Up! vol. 1

Hector- Guard Dog
Hey Everyone,

Heres a bit of a catch up on whats been happening over the past few days; I've been doing a lot lately! When last I updated this site, I had visited biodynamic producer Reyneke to the west of Stellenbosch. Things change so fast here that I am writing this to you from the office of the very same producer. It sounds like I've not accomplished even as much as getting back to my own flat to go to bed, but in fact there is much more that has happened between my two visits.

I paid a very interesting visit back to de Trafford and met a second time with our old friend Gerard at Kleinood, as well as visited Waterford Winery and legendary winemaker Kevin Arnold. I then went a bit further afield to the north and later to the east, but that will be covered on its own!

First things first; going to de Trafford a second time I was given the chance to try quite a few interesting vintages from this excellent winery. We delved into the library stock (after making it past the fearsome guard dog 'Hector'!) and arranged a flight of five vintages each of the Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah and Elevation as well as some Straw Wine and Chenin Blanc. As far back as 2004 for some of the wines, I saw the measure of quality that truly lies behind the label of every bottle of David Trafford's wines. Tasting through a vertical of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet going back to 2004, I didn't necessarily see how the wine ages (Most still have years to go!), but I did see vintage variation.

Its is always the mark of a classic winery when the same wine varies year to year, not sacrificing anything in quality, but embracing the unique qualities of each vintage. A common theme running through the 2009 wines, which was a phenomenal year for South Africa is a hint of smokey savouriness. This owes to the raging wildfires that ravaged the countryside near Stellenbosch and for many this was a disaster. Any grapes contaminated with smoke were eliminated and the crop suffered. Not so with de Trafford. The wines are big enough and structured enough to actually carry the smoke with surprising ease, integrating the flavour as an integral aspect of the overall character.

I was truly impressed by the quality and youthful vigor in the 2006 Syrah as well as the Merlot, and the 2005 Cabernet has been developing extremely well. I would be particularly happy if we could get some of these reserve vintages on the shelves in St. Andrews! Perhaps if we ask very nicely we will see some aged Syrah or Cabernet on our shelves...

Beyond that we tasted a few excellent vintages of the Elevation blend, a Bordeaux style assemblage that screamed class and style in every vintage. This is a perfect case in point that South Africa is able to put forward some proper fine wines (whatever 'fine' actually means) and for me, this will be an exciting wine to keep an eye on as it matures. If you ever decide to spring for some Elevation, or any de Trafford for that matter, I would try and go for a second bottle to just put away and forget about for a good decade and check in one night with a nice roast leg of lamb.

Tomorrow I'll be writing about my great experiences on the road as I journeyed through Paarl, the Swartland and down the coast to the southernmost tip of Africa (and beyond!) to Cape Agulhas.

Until then...

Much Love,

George

 

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