Journeying eastwards along the coast from Somerset West you pass along what I consider to be the most beautiful coast line in the entire world. I am comfortable with that statement because South Africa is a land of superlatives. As a wine country, it has been argued that this is the most dramatic for its landscapes and the south coast is among the most stunning places here. Great mountains rise up swiftly from the sea where the Atlantic meets the Indian Ocean and creates the lugubrious climate that defines the Cape.
The mountains continue along the coast with dramatic cliffs and tidy fishing villages, including the town of Hermanus which sits at the foot of the Hemel-En-Aarde valley. Afrikaans for Heaven on Earth, this stunningly beautiful valley is a funnel for the cooling winds coming off False Bay and the Oceans to the south allowing for a dramatically cooler climate compared to the farm lands just north in Overberg. As a result, the climate and the wines are almost a polar opposite from those of the Swartland (which I will talk about in my next post!) where the land is burnt by the sun and the wines are much bigger and Rhône-like in comparison with the delicate Burgundian cultivars in this valley.
Plenty of famous names dot the road up the valley with big hitters such as Hamilton Russel and Bouchard-Finlayson being the most familiar to the international market, and both known primarily for their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay bottlings (varieties both know as difficult to grow in most of South Africa). They excel in producing pleasant, complex and alluring Pinots to the point were wine-geeks the world over regularly feature them in that most controversial of tastings- the France v New World Taste Off! In fact Hamilton Russel has been said to resemble Olivier Leflaive with their estate Chardonnay.
Moving up the valley to the Upper Hemel-En-Aarde (and continuing with the double-barreled names) is Newton-Johnston. St. Andrews is lucky to have been visited in the past by Bevan Newton-Johnston when he came to talk about his wines and I have to say that I went in pretty much convinced already, as well as happy to have a chance to chat with Bevan and meet his winemaking brother Gordon.
The winery itself is the brainchild of our old friend at Kleinood, Gerard de Villiers and you can see his trade marks everywhere in the nearly invisible, unintrusive but thoroughly efficient machinery that help this small winery run at full capacity to produce excellent wines.
Now I confess that I am no great lover of Pinot Noir (generally I don't understand why it gets all the press as the 'best grape') but I really enjoy it for its merits as an intricate, floral and bright fruity red and appreciate its response to the ageing process. Here, however I saw some really fascinating Pinot! And because of just how much we tasted, I will give a quick succession of tasting notes for brevity's sake and just give you the bare bones of what I liked the most...
Sauvignon Blanc- Made in a softened, round style of Sauvignon. Not quite as big and zesty as Life from Stone or most Kiwi Sauvignon, but in general pleasant for the price. 75/100
Resonance Semillon/Sauvignon- Nice texture with bits of pepper on the finish. I am finiding that I prefer my Sauvignon when it's treated like Bordeaux Sauvignon and thats whats happened here. Touches of orange blossom come through on the finish. 80/100
South End Chardonnay- Rich with ripe fruit, red apples and pears. Very linear with nice acidity but with a full and balanced character. Not a bad entry level Chardonnay! Punches above its weight. 83/100
Family Vineyards Chardonnay- Very elegant! More Meursault than Mâcon with a beautifully tight herbal character that fills in excellently in lieu of a fatty oak style. Bits of orange peel and a nice kick of toast on the finish. 88/100
Felicité Pinot Noir- Newton-Johnston's more entry level Pinot Noir. Just as pale as the rest of the Pinot range but lacking the complexity and vibrance. Touches of funkiness weave in and out of raspberries and lead the palate to a straightforward, easy-going completion. Not bad.- 82/100
Single Vineyard Mrs. M. Pinot Noir- Coming from a sandy soil this shows a bright floral perfume, almost reminiscent of campari after a helthy dose of soda. very easy to appreciate, very difficult to spit out!- 85/100
Single Vineyard Block 6 Pinot Noir- More colour with a richer, darker fruit presence, maintaining the fruit all the way through to the finish. Wilted flower petals add to the richness while the acidity and light tannins carry the wine with great elegants and class. One of my favourite Pinots... ever! They've managed to execute a balanced, fully dry red wine in South Africa at 12.9%! Thats awesome.- 94/100
Family Vineyards Pinot Noir 2012- Very rich, full bodied and moreish. Nose of deep blackberries and possibly some garrigue(?) and a finishing hit of light woodiness. Very round and very nice!- 90/100
The Hemel-En-Aarde is really all about the Pinot and the Chardonnay (in my mind). If any part of south africa can pull off these varieties, it is here. I really like Hamilton Russel and I absolutely love Newton-Johnson. their wines are so lovingly crafted as they are in all the best wineries and I think that they are execellent value for top-class wines!
Next I'll be writing about my very brief visit to the newest viticultural ward in South Africa and the monopole creating a big stir and turning a lot of heads looking eastwards; Sijnn.
Much Love,
George
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