Wine of Origin Malgas- South Africa's Monopole

Hey Everyone,

We all like a product with a point of difference. Bordeaux blends focussed on Cabernet Franc (Raats) or even a country's only Biodynamic winery and that is exactly what I came to South Africa to find. The last winery I am going to write about specifically is not so much a winery but a wine farm. Also, it is a South African monopole. To give that term some meaning, a monopole is a winery that is alone in it's appellation; one of a kind. Château Grillet, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti are among the most famous monopoles, with wines fetching astronomic prices.

Here in Malgas, where the Breede River cuts a tooth-shaped course towards Cape Infanta there is no wine route. No wine bars or tasting rooms for miles and no restaurants along this beautiful African river contribute to the remote feeling of the place. The paved road ends about halfway through the journey (it seems) and eventually you arrive at a small farm with the only grapes you've seen in a hundred kilometres. Here is the origin of one of my favourite South African wines and to get here was an incredible journey.

The Breede River lends it's name to the wine; 'Sijnn' from the Khoisan language. The place is very special, and shows a visionary wine-style that revolves around the iron-rich ancient river stones that make up the top layer of soil; the spitting image of Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, and the shale base. The wines are beautifully made and tasting through the forthcoming vintages and some experimental bottlings, I can say that this farm, after turning plenty of heads will not be resting on it's laurels.

What was most exciting for me was to see the emergence over time of a distinct Sijnn flavour. The way that Reyneke and Raats have achieved a recogniseable texture and flavour profile, so has Sijnn in the most recent vintages. Tasting some of the older vintages, it is great to see that they are evolving so well, with the maiden 2007 maturing like of the greats of the Rhône, but the 2011's in the white, red and Cabernetshowed the coming of age of the vines and the true expression of the soil and place.

The Cabernet, bottled in small quantities showed big fruit and mineral as well as some pretty chunky texture more like a Napa Cabernet though with a hint of herbal quality that I find distinctly South African. The 2011, however shows classic Cabernet qualities taking a back seat to aromas of olives, fynbos and pepper.

The Low Profile (intended as a supporting act for the Red) is a surprisingly serious wine with seductive richness, lighter fresh herbs and very pure fruit. There is a layering of garrigue and fynbos, but in reality, this wine is all about complex, rich fruits. Very nice stuff!

The whites have eveolved nicely, and the 2011 is again the best of the line up for me. I am curious to see what becomes of the 2012 as it develops in bottle, but the culture of evolution here in Malgas has led David Trafford to plant some Roussane to see how it works in the white blend. As I love Roussane, I am excited to see how this works with the Chenin Blanc and Viognier in the blend.

For all this talk about the varieties planted at Sijnn, I want to quote what someone said whilst tasting the wines at Malgas- "It's not the varieties that make the wine unique; it's the place." I think that that should be the approach everyone takes when tasting Sijnn, because it is too easy to look at the back label and read off the hybrid Rhône-Douro blend and credit that with the uniqueness of the wine. It erally is all about the place.

This is my last post from the bottom of the world and tomorrow I will be flying back up the length of this continent to St. Andrews and I hope that I've helped to whet your appetite for some delicious South African wines! They truly are amazing!

Much Love,

George- WynExplorer

 

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Catch Up! vol. 1

Hector- Guard Dog

Hey Everyone,

Heres a bit of a catch up on whats been happening over the past few days; I've been doing a lot lately! When last I updated this site, I had visited biodynamic producer Reyneke to the west of Stellenbosch. Things change so fast here that I am writing this to you from the office of the very same producer. It sounds like I've not accomplished even as much as getting back to my own flat to go to bed, but in fact there is much more that has happened between my two visits.

I paid a very interesting visit back to de Trafford and met a second time with our old friend Gerard at Kleinood, as well as visited Waterford Winery and legendary winemaker Kevin Arnold. I then went a bit further afield to the north and later to the east, but that will be covered on its own!

First things first; going to de Trafford a second time I was given the chance to try quite a few interesting vintages from this excellent winery. We delved into the library stock (after making it past the fearsome guard dog 'Hector'!) and arranged a flight of five vintages each of the Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah and Elevation as well as some Straw Wine and Chenin Blanc. As far back as 2004 for some of the wines, I saw the measure of quality that truly lies behind the label of every bottle of David Trafford's wines. Tasting through a vertical of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet going back to 2004, I didn't necessarily see how the wine ages (Most still have years to go!), but I did see vintage variation.

Its is always the mark of a classic winery when the same wine varies year to year, not sacrificing anything in quality, but embracing the unique qualities of each vintage. A common theme running through the 2009 wines, which was a phenomenal year for South Africa is a hint of smokey savouriness. This owes to the raging wildfires that ravaged the countryside near Stellenbosch and for many this was a disaster. Any grapes contaminated with smoke were eliminated and the crop suffered. Not so with de Trafford. The wines are big enough and structured enough to actually carry the smoke with surprising ease, integrating the flavour as an integral aspect of the overall character.

I was truly impressed by the quality and youthful vigor in the 2006 Syrah as well as the Merlot, and the 2005 Cabernet has been developing extremely well. I would be particularly happy if we could get some of these reserve vintages on the shelves in St. Andrews! Perhaps if we ask very nicely we will see some aged Syrah or Cabernet on our shelves...

Beyond that we tasted a few excellent vintages of the Elevation blend, a Bordeaux style assemblage that screamed class and style in every vintage. This is a perfect case in point that South Africa is able to put forward some proper fine wines (whatever 'fine' actually means) and for me, this will be an exciting wine to keep an eye on as it matures. If you ever decide to spring for some Elevation, or any de Trafford for that matter, I would try and go for a second bottle to just put away and forget about for a good decade and check in one night with a nice roast leg of lamb.

Tomorrow I'll be writing about my great experiences on the road as I journeyed through Paarl, the Swartland and down the coast to the southernmost tip of Africa (and beyond!) to Cape Agulhas.

Until then...

Much Love,

George

 

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Biodynamics in Action- Reyneke

Hey Everyone,

Today I went back towards Raats to visit another farm along the Polkesdraai Road. Reyneke is situated in what seems like a gated community of awesome wine. Several occupy the same driveway off the Polkedraai, including the not insignificant De Toren. Reyneke however, is much less known amongst international wine drinkers, though the recognition is growing and with it the loyal following. Platter's Guide gave the 2008 flagship Red a rare 5/5 star rating and the rest of the range consistently performs very highly in such ratings.

Head winemaker and owner Johann Reyneke only took over this operation about 15 years ago and in that time has fine tuned his product in accordance with biodynamic principles for his flagship red and white wines and maintains an organic classification for his entire range, even down to the entry level bottlings. While I do not pretend to really 'get' biodynamics as far as the quality of the wine is concerned, I have to say that the wines I tried were excellent.

The farm is located in a remarkable position. Sitting at the top of a hill to the west of Stellenbosch it commands incredible views north across a valley filled with vineyards and fruit farms, and to the south were the striking silhouette of Table Mountain looms in the haze next to the deep blue of False Bay and beyond, the Indian Ocean.

The proximity to the sea, with very little high ground in between means that this particular area of the Stellenbosch wine lands receives the moderating influence of the maritime breezes. More than the climate, Reyneke's vineyards are planted on the same seam of Table Mountain Sandstone that gives such excellent results at Raats just a kilometre or so down the road. An adventurous wine maker like Johann Reyneke is sure to put that excellent soil to good use.

With the sea breezes colling the vineyards, Reyneke can focus on an elegant style of Syrah, similar in feel to a Cornas in my opinion. Not as peppery as Crozes-Hermitage, not as intensely fruity as an Aussie Shiraz, it strikes a nice balance with dark, black berries and a tiny hint of cocoa (not chocolate) and spicy clove. The cooling climate also means that the berries ripen more evenly over a longer period of time meaning that the tannins are tightly woven with an acidity level that presents a wine intended for aging. The quality was so high that I would love to lay down a couple bottles and try them over the next five years and leave one to forget about until 2020!


The biodynamic white was one that was right up my alley; a barrel fermented and 12 month aged Sauvignon Blanc in the style of a white Pessac-Léognan. The oak, though present was so carefully applied and delicate that the clean, clear fruits of the Sauvignon came through with a tiny touch of struck flint. Again, this is a wine that has the legs to march on into the future for another four or five years getting only better and bolder. I would not be surprised if it could go further but I just don't know if I could wait!

The Cornerstone red blend, consisting of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc was another big, full on bottle that not only has the potential for aging but requires it to soften the impact of the tannins, acidity and massive fruit character. The encouraging part was that all these aspects of the wine were in balance. No one element stood over the others nor dominated. Balance in a wine such as this is reassuring at such a youthful stage and I am confident that after a few years it will become an exceptional red and will reward patient wine enthusiasts with a classy bottle of mature wine.

I really liked Reyneke. The wines were excellent and show a real adventurous edge to the wine maker's approach. They are intended for aging, meaning that Johann is banking on customers with foresight. Barrel fermented Sauvignon Blanc is not a wine for the mass consumer. It takes time to acquire the taste and many examples out there simply aren't very good (I'm looking at you Cloudy Bay) so when a winemaker puts a lot of effort into the production of a proper example it shows that his work is a labour of love.

Tomorrow I shall be heading back to Kleinood and take a stroll through among the vines with Gerard de Villiers to see first hand how his methods are put into practice in the vineyards. Until then...

Much Love,

George

 

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End of the Road- de Trafford

Hey Everyone,

I capped off my week of winery visits with one that I am somewhat more familiar with. I had spent so many afternoons bouncing along the Blaauwklippen Road from Dornier to Keermont, that I figured it would make sense to finish off with the folks at the very end of the valley. Nestled up where the Helderberg and Stellenbosch Berg meet, de Trafford is the highly regarded operation by architect-turned-winemaker David Trafford and the source of several wines I am very fond of.

By now I've become accustomed to the bumpy improvised nature of this end of the Blaauwklippen Road where two vehicles coming in the opposite direction do well to be creative when it comes to getting past. Generally when I am traveling out this way, I will have one or two cars in front or behind, but by the time we reach Dornier they've turned off and certainly once I've passed Waterford I am alone on the road as I approach Keermont, the Mont Fleur conference centre and eventually de Trafford.

For my first visit to the winery, however there were a few surprises in store. I arrived at the quiet winery uring the very limited tasting times with the intention of introducing myself, maybe refreshing myself on a few of the wines I hadn't tasted in a while and maybe picking up a bottle of Chenin for my dinner. I saw a pair of visitors being served by a lone employee and joined them until they left. Hoping to chat a bit about the wines and maybe have a look around the cellars, but wave after crushing wave of visitors arrived, flooding the tasting room with at least twenty people at a time, all of them at a different point in the line-up of wines, some asking questions and others putting in order forms to buy wine direct. I have to say that the entire situation was handled with remarkable efficiency considering there was only one person on duty!

I can tell you that there is a reason for all this to-do about this winery. De Trafford's range rarely fails to be enjoyable and this visit to the winery was no different. My favourite of the range is still the Merlot for the combined style, quality and price. Sold for about £22 it has a big, tannic structure with plenty of bright fruit, but a balancing touch of spice, earth and wood, all while avoiding the overly sweet confected flavours that many full bodied Merlots develop.

I also liked the Chenin Blanc, for both the flavour and the use of Rita Trafford's artwork on the label, which changes from year to year. It's a barrel fermented Chenin that carries its oak delicately, while displaying big, full fruits and a bright acidity.

The other reds, including the estate Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and the Elevation were all superb renditions of style. The Syrah lead with its dark fruit, but subtle hints of peppery spice and violets show the layers of this tasty wine. The Cabernet is similarly faithful to it's varietal and I think it's one of my favourite South African Cabs. The Elevation, referring to David's architectural background was a marvellous red wine with nothing if not structure. A classy Bordeaux blend it is an elegant wine that certainly carries a lot of power behind its veil of polished tannins and acidity. I read an article in which four vintages of the Cabernet were tasted off against their counterparts from Chateau Latour, and by a narrow consensus view emerged triumphant.

Such blind tastings have their flaws but it shows that de Trafford wines can hold their own on the international stage when compared with the best of them. As new world wines generally fare better in taste offs I think that this tasting could be even more poignantly staged between de Trafford and a California great like Harlan or Screaming Eagle if we want to see where things stand and I personally wouldn't be too hesitant to put my money on de Trafford repeating its strong showing win or lose. Also, I would personally love to attend such a tasting if anyone with the resources decides to organise such an event!

While it did not take a tasting at the vineyard to say that de Trafford is a great winery, what it did show me is that even with its remote location and six hours each week of tasting time, the public recognise the quality inherent in this producer. Rightly so, in my book. I've not yet come across a wine from de Trafford I haven't thoroughly enjoyed. They make classy, poised wines that deserve all the positive press they can get. I'll be travelling next week to go out and have a look at their other operation out in Malgas; Sijnn. I've already done a post on the Sijnn wines based purely on tasting. I can't wait to go and have a look at the property itself, as it pioneers wine in the Malgas region.

This week I'll be heading to wineries Eikendal, Vergelegen and Reyneke so be sure to check in regularly for more details!

Much Love,

George

 

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Fighting Vines- Raats Family Wines

Hey Everybody,

Today I visited two wineries and though my first of the day, an abrupt, very business-like encounter at Kanonkop was less than thrilling, my second visit was far more to my liking. My journey took me a different direction out of Stellenbosch than my previous adventures and I found myself along the much more rural and remote Vlaeberg Road, a big difference from the R44 between Stellenbosch and Somerset West. On the approach to Raats I noticed the soils between the vines was much paler than in the Blaauwklippen area.

When I arrived at the winery, I already knew a bit about the Raats wines. I knew that they specialised in two varieties; Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc and had a small range of wines at differing price points, from everyday quaffers and braai-wines to serious bottlings built to whether the test of time and drink in a decade or so. What I did not know was their reasoning for choosing this sight in particular, and that I had seen a valuable clue on the drive in. For owner Bruwer Raats, it's all about the soil. After years working around the world including stints in Italy, France and Spain and some time spent at the famous Cakebread Cellars in Napa Valley he knows a thing or two about dirt.

The plots he has chosen include two distinct and inconic soils. The first, decomposed dolomite granite created in the same period of volcanic volatility that created both the jagged peaks of the Helderbeg and the rolling hills that surround Raats, gives a bright minerality to the Chenin Blanc and Cabernet that I can hardly compare to anywhere else in the world. Not even Chablis regularly offers so much of a minerally profile. The second soil, found more commonly in the Western cape is Table Mountain Sandstone, so named because it is the building block of one of the world's most recogniseable mountains. Breaking apart one of these sand stones, you can see that under the dry, sandy exterior there is a moist core even on a sunny hot day. This soil retains moisture beautifully allowing the winery to forego irrigation entirely.

Another thing that struck me was the vine training. They stood vertically, not horizontally; a method I know to be used in places where acreage is so limited that this allows vintners to maximise their use of the available land. Chris, the publicity manager for Raats told me that these were in essence bush vines that had been encouraged to grow up a wooden post, but in fact the grapes were just as glose to the ground as any other bush vine and that the training method is meant to encourage competition amongst the vines. It was remarkable to imagine it; the vines planted so closely together would have roots going down several meters, fighting for precious ground water.

Here I could see the personality of the vines. Though the competition was fierce, the Chenin Blanc seemed to be making the effort to look polite and gentlemanly above ground even as their roots tore each other apart under the ground. The Cabernet Franc, however, made no such pretenses. Unkind and fickle to winemakers, it is even more savage among it's own kind with branches reaching over each other, strangling smaller vines with some big, bushy tyrants clearly dominating their own neigbourhoods like gangsters.

All this competition however, had it's justification in a darwinist approach to winemaking. The strongest vines produce the most fragrant, phenolic grapes and the best wines. I tried five wines from the Raats portfolio and found no fault with any of them, from their basic Chenin and Cabernet, through to their two serious bordeaux blends. I thought the Old-Vine Chenin was minerally and massively acidic, inviting a good five years of aging, while the Dolomite Cabernet Franc exhibited great minerality for such and affordable red wine.

The two premium red, the Red Jasper and the Family Cabernet Franc were stunning wines. Big and full bodied with plenty of chunky tannins and great complexity, whilst still showing Cabernet Franc's great touch of elegance and class. I look forward to seeing them in the UK along with 'de Compostella'; the collaboration wine between Bruwer Raats and Mzokhona Mvemve.

I liked all the Raats wines and would drink them all happily and greedily and I was loathe to leave and return to my car, but I think Chris was bound to enjoy the left overs later and that can come as consolation to an extent. Further comfort can be found it the hope that in the not too distant future the Raats wines will decorate the wine list in St. Andrews!

Much Love,

George

 

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Those Damn Baboons!- Keermont Wine Estate

Hey Everyone,

Today I am writing after one of my more thorough visits to a winery. Just down the 'road' from Kleinood (more of a rough dirt track) is the Keermont wine estate, situated far up the valley with one foot on the Helderberg and one foot on the Stellenbosch Berg with vineyards creeping well up the slopes.

Originally this was a bottling plant for natural spring water, though since becoming a winery the spring still serves as a source of irrigation water in dire circumstances and fills the jugs on tasting tables. At the top of the vineyards the reservoir is said to be about the best swimming pool on a hot day, with clean cool fresh water, and no doubt a great source of drinking water for the wildlife of the mountain.

Wine maker Alex Starey took me for a drive up the steep winding track that weaves through the vineyards on the Stellenbosch Berg and there we got a look at the kind of biodiversity the area can claim. A male baboon, likely with his family in tow scampered into the bushes, dropping a bunch of grapes as he fled. This is one of the not so subtle reminders that I am in a very different kind of wine region, where the animal hazards are unique, and not limited to bugs and birds.

All the same, the team here at Keermont maintain that this biodiversity is part of an important balance they must strike with the land they work. They limit irrigation, avoid fertilisers and don't put up the electric fences that some vineyards use to keep out the well organised baboon raiders. I think that this is an excellent approach to winemaking and most importantly of all, it turns out that the wine is very very good as well.

I tasted a good range of wines, and had the chance to try several vintages each of their Syrah and the white blend. This wasn't so much to show me the effects of time on the wine, though that w evident, but more to show me how Keermont is adjusting its style and fine-tuning it's still-new output. After all, the Keermont label is only five years old and they are still very much in the experimental stages. The white blend from 2009 was big and fully rich with honeyed Chenin characters that I can only compare to an off dry Vouvay, though I hesitate to compare between regions. The current 2011 is more restrained, a crisp, minerally blend of Chenin, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc with just a hint of oak, but avoiding the vanilla driven style that can be so tempting for a new operation.

The Syrah was excellent stuff with vintage variation on full display in the two bottlings I tried. The 2009 was chunky and tannic, with big fruit and big acidity meant for a bit of time resting in bottle, while the 2010 was more approachable in youth. Present but silky tannins meant for a very satisfying mouthfeel alongside the lovely nose of black cherries, violets and spices. Both were very beautiful examples of Syrah which show the potential of this marvellous variety. I have said more than once that I believe Syrah is the most inherently beautiful grape I've ever tried.

The tasting finished with a proprietary red blend based on Merlot with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah simply called the Keermont. It was a lovely Bordeaux style blend with great richness and spice and plenty of acid and fruit for a hearty meal. To finish off that meal there is the natural sweet Sauvignon Blanc, made from vine dried grapes. It was bright, clean and light with a nice peachy, cotton candy like sweetness that was ever so pleasant to drink.

Wile the wines I tried were excellent, and entirely merit the increased attention they are receiving, what made me most excited about Keermont is the the planning for the future. They are toying with single vineyard bottlings of Cabernet Franc which thrives so well on their slopes, they are planting new varieties, such as Roussanne and working with some Petit Verdot. All in all they have an adventurous spirit that is so valuable in a country like South Africa, and I believe that they have the potential to be (/are already) one of the great names in South African wines.

Much Love,

George

 

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The Wine Farer Series Willie Mostert 2011 White

Hey Everyone,

Today I am tasting a lovely bottle of wine from the Paarl region of the Western Cape of South Africa. It is a wine right along the lines of what I look for when it comes to a good, straightforward every day drinking wine that I am happy to keep in my fridge and offer to friends as well as enjoy my self. This void had always been filled by another South African Chenin; the Secateurs from the Badenhorst stable and while it always pleased, I am truly excited to have come across this little gem.

It is a big wine to be sure, with a beautifully rich texture and body, it displays the characteristics of each varietal wonderfully. The Chenin Blanc leads off of course with a bright aroma of honeysuckle and stewed apricots, but it is shadowed by the fragrant and fleshy Roussane, which I think gives the wine an added element of peachy fruit that helps avoid the over-honeyed character that plagues some Chenin Blanc. The remainder of the blend; Clairette Blanche, Grenache Blanc and Verdelho all contribute their own characteristics of soft, fleshy fruit, rich viscosity and a hint of petillance that gives the wine a great lift and keeps it from being too oily.

Another element that I like about this wine is the commitment to the terroir. There is a great minerality on the finish almost reminiscent of the Loire Valley, which makes sense, but the cleanliness and elegance is really a lovely aspect of this £10 bottle of white. Furthermore, the winemaking adheres to the principals of Biodynamics, which is a concept I don't fully understand, but I find more and more that a wine maker willing to go to all the trouble of burying a dung filled cow horn on a full moon (I believe that's part of biodynamics), is likely to produce a good wine. It all comes down to caring about the wine you are making and nearly every Biodynamically made wine I have tasted has been at least a sold representation of variety and style. This wine, is delightful.

This is the sort of thing that draws me towards South Africa. I find that many wine makers here embrace their unique terroir and make wines that express their overabundance of natural grandeur. Here, with wine making traditions going back to the 17th century, there is a remarkable spirit to explore the potential of what can be achieved with the final product, while remaining true to the character of the land.

I hope you get a chance to try this lovely bottle and wish you all the best in the week ahead.

Much Love,

George

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Sijnn Wines

Hello Everybody,

Today I'm writing to you to talk about the sort of wines I am looking for. I'm not looking for wines that are mass produced nor am I looking for producers selling their wines for hundreds of pounds per bottle. Neither Yellow Tail nor Harlan Estate, nor do I want wines from those who are already well established in the world. I want to find wines that are affordable for anyone who wants to try a good bottle and is willing to spend perhaps a bit more to get a really cracking wine. I want wines that are entertainment in themselves. After all I would always rather spend £15 on a bottle of wine between two people than the same on two movie tickets.

So today I am beginning to taste wines along these lines which I can find in the UK and share my notes with you so that we can see what is here already before looking at what is left undiscovered in the rest of the world. The wine is a very small production from Malgas near Swellendam in South Africa. Situated along the banks of the Breede River, Sijnn (pron. 'sane') produces two wines that I regularly consider among my favourites. The white, a 53-47% blend of Chenin Blanc and Viognier is a beautifully rich, lively and aromatic white wine that appeals to my love of the slightly oakier wines of the Rhône Valley, but with the added acidic edge of Chenin Blanc. It is versatile and food friendly and just very, very solid for those who want an all-rounder white wine.

The red, a unique blend of Rhône varietals Shiraz and Mourvèdre beefed up by Douro varieties Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira, is a massively aromatic wine with a beautifully balanced palate. Eschewing aromas of black cherries, red currants and strawberries all enveloped in a feral leather pouch with hints of dry cocoa power and licorice it is exactly the kind of full bodied red I look for. The palate carries on with the fruits as they give way to the cocoa and finishes with a long note of roasted coffee beans. The acid and the tannins are well matched to one another and though both are found here in abundance neither overwhelms the fruit and complexities of flavour.

Both of these wines are gorgeously complex and offer both novelty and overall satisfaction. They have a classic feel but they are not too ponderous on established wine styles, which I find greatly appealing. I love Rhône style wines and in essence thats what I find here, but I also see much more than that. I see an expansion upon the classics which keeps things interesting. You can look forever for a nice Shiraz but at the end of the day even the best shiraz will be what you expect it to be. I expected a Rhône style red from Sijnn when I first tried it, but that inherint difference gives these wines both an edge that makes me want to revisit them again and again. As both of these wines retail around £20 per bottle, they are not absurdly expensive for those looking to try something really interesting.

This is the sort of wine I am looking for when I travel to South Africa and I know that there will be others that appeal to traditional inclinations but surprise with a twist that just makes you smile. I want wine that is entertaining. I'll be trying things regularly in the next few weeks leading up to my trip to see what is already present and what can be added to the range of boutique wines available in Britain.

Much Love,

George

 

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