Biodynamics in Action- Reyneke

Hey Everyone,

Today I went back towards Raats to visit another farm along the Polkesdraai Road. Reyneke is situated in what seems like a gated community of awesome wine. Several occupy the same driveway off the Polkedraai, including the not insignificant De Toren. Reyneke however, is much less known amongst international wine drinkers, though the recognition is growing and with it the loyal following. Platter's Guide gave the 2008 flagship Red a rare 5/5 star rating and the rest of the range consistently performs very highly in such ratings.

Head winemaker and owner Johann Reyneke only took over this operation about 15 years ago and in that time has fine tuned his product in accordance with biodynamic principles for his flagship red and white wines and maintains an organic classification for his entire range, even down to the entry level bottlings. While I do not pretend to really 'get' biodynamics as far as the quality of the wine is concerned, I have to say that the wines I tried were excellent.

The farm is located in a remarkable position. Sitting at the top of a hill to the west of Stellenbosch it commands incredible views north across a valley filled with vineyards and fruit farms, and to the south were the striking silhouette of Table Mountain looms in the haze next to the deep blue of False Bay and beyond, the Indian Ocean.

The proximity to the sea, with very little high ground in between means that this particular area of the Stellenbosch wine lands receives the moderating influence of the maritime breezes. More than the climate, Reyneke's vineyards are planted on the same seam of Table Mountain Sandstone that gives such excellent results at Raats just a kilometre or so down the road. An adventurous wine maker like Johann Reyneke is sure to put that excellent soil to good use.

With the sea breezes colling the vineyards, Reyneke can focus on an elegant style of Syrah, similar in feel to a Cornas in my opinion. Not as peppery as Crozes-Hermitage, not as intensely fruity as an Aussie Shiraz, it strikes a nice balance with dark, black berries and a tiny hint of cocoa (not chocolate) and spicy clove. The cooling climate also means that the berries ripen more evenly over a longer period of time meaning that the tannins are tightly woven with an acidity level that presents a wine intended for aging. The quality was so high that I would love to lay down a couple bottles and try them over the next five years and leave one to forget about until 2020!


The biodynamic white was one that was right up my alley; a barrel fermented and 12 month aged Sauvignon Blanc in the style of a white Pessac-Léognan. The oak, though present was so carefully applied and delicate that the clean, clear fruits of the Sauvignon came through with a tiny touch of struck flint. Again, this is a wine that has the legs to march on into the future for another four or five years getting only better and bolder. I would not be surprised if it could go further but I just don't know if I could wait!

The Cornerstone red blend, consisting of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc was another big, full on bottle that not only has the potential for aging but requires it to soften the impact of the tannins, acidity and massive fruit character. The encouraging part was that all these aspects of the wine were in balance. No one element stood over the others nor dominated. Balance in a wine such as this is reassuring at such a youthful stage and I am confident that after a few years it will become an exceptional red and will reward patient wine enthusiasts with a classy bottle of mature wine.

I really liked Reyneke. The wines were excellent and show a real adventurous edge to the wine maker's approach. They are intended for aging, meaning that Johann is banking on customers with foresight. Barrel fermented Sauvignon Blanc is not a wine for the mass consumer. It takes time to acquire the taste and many examples out there simply aren't very good (I'm looking at you Cloudy Bay) so when a winemaker puts a lot of effort into the production of a proper example it shows that his work is a labour of love.

Tomorrow I shall be heading back to Kleinood and take a stroll through among the vines with Gerard de Villiers to see first hand how his methods are put into practice in the vineyards. Until then...

Much Love,

George

 

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Kleinood Wine Farm- Home of Tamboerskloof Wines

Tamboerskloof Syrah by Kleinood

Hey Everyone,

Today, among several producers visited, I stopped by Kleinood Wine Farm, not far along the Blaauwklippen Road from Dornier. I was lucky enough to meet with the owner of the operation, Gerard de Villiers, who not only runs Kleinood, but also designs wineries around the world. He has worked with such recognisable names as Nyetimber as well as plenty of other South African wineries and has a remarkably intellectual approach to everything he does.

Before I tasted any of his wines, I was shown around the winery. Not a huge winery by any means, but it maximises it's efficiency by using several devices of Gerard's own design. A remarkable system of pulleys and cranes attached to a runner around the ceiling means that the machinery, including the basket press itself can be lifted and moved around the winery floor with ease. Alongside this, the larger fermentation tanks, far too big to be punched down by hand have computer-operated punch-down mechanisms along for maximum extraction in the wines.

In addition to the space-age technologies in use on the winery floor, the selection of the grape varieties was the result of careful monitoring of the weather patterns and comparing them with those of other regions around the world. I saw incredibly detailed analyses of soil conditions, rainfall and annual climate mapping which indicated the definitive correllation between Kleinood and the Norther Rhône, in particular Côte-Rôtie. Therefore, they went to the Côte-Rôtie and got a hold of their Syrah clones to make sure everything went according to plan. The resulting red is a powerful, peppery and briney Syrah that I find infinitely attractive!

For the white they use Viognier and vinify in a method similar to Condrieu, though the end result is laced with bracing acidity and crisp minerality with hints, though no more of elegant oak-aging coming through. Gerard said that formerly the winery produced a much more buttery style of Viognier but have moved this year to a more restrained, poised interpretation. Future years will see the incorporation of a small amount of Roussanne to the end result. Though I could find no fault with the wine as it is now, I am confident that Gerard's decision is based on very sound scientific reasoning.

The use of oak is restrained. Though all the wine, aside from the very pleasant rosé is matured in barrel, most of it is older, large French oak barrels meant to soften and unite the flavours of the wine but not to confect them with buttery toastiness.

Wine is an art to a winemaker and Gerard feels no differently. For him however their is an artistic science that he puts into his work. He is not trying to cultivate an image of some idyllic rural farmhouse operation, because he doesn't have to. He is conducting a balancing act between his innovative techniques and his traditions in such effortless fashion that I marvel at the absence of pretense. Tamboerskloof wines, made by Kleinood are really very impressive!

Much Love,

George

 

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