Wine of Origin Malgas- South Africa's Monopole

Hey Everyone,

We all like a product with a point of difference. Bordeaux blends focussed on Cabernet Franc (Raats) or even a country's only Biodynamic winery and that is exactly what I came to South Africa to find. The last winery I am going to write about specifically is not so much a winery but a wine farm. Also, it is a South African monopole. To give that term some meaning, a monopole is a winery that is alone in it's appellation; one of a kind. Château Grillet, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti are among the most famous monopoles, with wines fetching astronomic prices.

Here in Malgas, where the Breede River cuts a tooth-shaped course towards Cape Infanta there is no wine route. No wine bars or tasting rooms for miles and no restaurants along this beautiful African river contribute to the remote feeling of the place. The paved road ends about halfway through the journey (it seems) and eventually you arrive at a small farm with the only grapes you've seen in a hundred kilometres. Here is the origin of one of my favourite South African wines and to get here was an incredible journey.

The Breede River lends it's name to the wine; 'Sijnn' from the Khoisan language. The place is very special, and shows a visionary wine-style that revolves around the iron-rich ancient river stones that make up the top layer of soil; the spitting image of Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, and the shale base. The wines are beautifully made and tasting through the forthcoming vintages and some experimental bottlings, I can say that this farm, after turning plenty of heads will not be resting on it's laurels.

What was most exciting for me was to see the emergence over time of a distinct Sijnn flavour. The way that Reyneke and Raats have achieved a recogniseable texture and flavour profile, so has Sijnn in the most recent vintages. Tasting some of the older vintages, it is great to see that they are evolving so well, with the maiden 2007 maturing like of the greats of the Rhône, but the 2011's in the white, red and Cabernetshowed the coming of age of the vines and the true expression of the soil and place.

The Cabernet, bottled in small quantities showed big fruit and mineral as well as some pretty chunky texture more like a Napa Cabernet though with a hint of herbal quality that I find distinctly South African. The 2011, however shows classic Cabernet qualities taking a back seat to aromas of olives, fynbos and pepper.

The Low Profile (intended as a supporting act for the Red) is a surprisingly serious wine with seductive richness, lighter fresh herbs and very pure fruit. There is a layering of garrigue and fynbos, but in reality, this wine is all about complex, rich fruits. Very nice stuff!

The whites have eveolved nicely, and the 2011 is again the best of the line up for me. I am curious to see what becomes of the 2012 as it develops in bottle, but the culture of evolution here in Malgas has led David Trafford to plant some Roussane to see how it works in the white blend. As I love Roussane, I am excited to see how this works with the Chenin Blanc and Viognier in the blend.

For all this talk about the varieties planted at Sijnn, I want to quote what someone said whilst tasting the wines at Malgas- "It's not the varieties that make the wine unique; it's the place." I think that that should be the approach everyone takes when tasting Sijnn, because it is too easy to look at the back label and read off the hybrid Rhône-Douro blend and credit that with the uniqueness of the wine. It erally is all about the place.

This is my last post from the bottom of the world and tomorrow I will be flying back up the length of this continent to St. Andrews and I hope that I've helped to whet your appetite for some delicious South African wines! They truly are amazing!

Much Love,

George- WynExplorer

 

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